![]() 'Tree ring pour' - The paints are all added into one cup and poured in slow circular motion in the middle of the puddle using a circular wrist movement. 'dirty cup' or 'Flip cup' - This is when the paints are all added into one cup then the cup is flipped and lifted. There are several methods of pouring that will give differing results. ![]() The term 'pour painting' is in reference to the paint being poured onto the canvas. I personally still like to use silicone in my paintings. In fact, a lot of pour painting artists swear against the use of silicone in their art. Silicone is a great additive that creates intense cells but it doesn't need to be used to achieve cells. If you decide to use silicone oil in your piece, please note before any protective topcoat is applied, the silicone HAS to be 100% removed, this can be a tedious process, I have never gotten 100% of the silicone off of any of my paintings partly due to the silicone soaking into the canvas itself, residual silicone keeps the topcoat or resin from sticking to the canvas, leaving a rough patchy appearance. Silicone - Silicone oil is used to create cells in pour painting. It extends the paint but will not thin it out. It keeps each of the colours separate, without it you would end up with a muddy mess of colour that would honestly look rather sad. Pouring medium - Pouring medium is a transparent acrylic paint additive that reduces 'colour crazing'. The water is used solely for diluting the paints, while the glue acts to replace the binding agent that you just diluted out of the paint if you were to just add water your paints you would end up too runny. ![]() Glue + water mix - This mix is something I swear by, it cuts cost and brings the paints to a pourable consistency.
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